
Écharpe noire et blanche 239 ref BDNW11905,
Circa 1930
Atelier Vionnet
Fine Art Drawings : pencil
27 x 21 cm 10.6 x 8.3 inch
Second NOT DISPLAYED BLUR TEXT
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About the artwork
Type
Unique work
Signature
Hand-signed by artist
Authenticity
Sold with certificate of Authenticity from the gallery
Invoice from the gallery
Medium
Dimensions cm • inch
27 x 21 cm 10.6 x 8.3 inch Height x Width x Depth
Support
Framing
Not framed
Artwork sold in perfect condition
Artwork location: France
Particularities of the work: Original drawing signed in the middle on the right by Blanche Aubert, first hand of the Atelier Vionnet.
Provenance: Collection Marcelle Chaumont and Madeleine Chapsal, the invoice engages the responsibility of the gallery as to the Authenticity of the work.
Expert's comment: The designs of the Atelier Vionnet that the gallery is proud to present to you constitute an important part of the history of fashion. Beyond their historical value, they show the artistic talent of the collaborators of the Vionnet haute couture house at its peak in the 20s and 30s. It is true, the quality of the designs that led us to dive into this universe of fashion that we knew too little, leading to the discovery of this extraordinary woman that is Madeleine Vionnet. Perfectly known to great designers for her famous bias cut and the quality of her creations, she is much less known to the general public. We are therefore happy to share with you the discovery of this great lady whose journey, courage, hard work and humanity should inspire women today. These drawings also prompted us to think about the creative process of the dresses which first come to life on rosewood mannequins with articulated limbs and rotating on themselves so that we can judge the effect of a bias or of a drape. They also make it possible to capture the movement in its simultaneity but also in its entirety. It was only after this stage, when the first hands of Vionnet presented her with these elaborate quarter-size canvases on the famous mannequins that she could go further in the execution and move on to drawing. It is undoubtedly for this reason that the designs from the Atelier Vionnet are so accomplished and reproduce the Vionnet style so well. His creations combine both antique and modernity and will revolutionize the fashion of his time. Indeed, her dresses are flexible and dress the body in a strict molding of harmonious folds with balanced proportions while allowing freedom of movement. In addition, some drawings offered by the gallery have specific features that increase their value. Some are signed by hand by the first of the workshop, others are accompanied by a piece of fabric, an explanatory text or even a reference number because Vionnet protected all its models from counterfeiting. Finally, it is difficult to dissociate these drawings from the artistic context of the time. Like the Art Deco style, Vionnet's work hides complex and laborious work under an apparent simplicity. Vionnet's inventions have also often been compared to that of cubism in painting, which broke the planes of pictorial space. Indeed, the garment is no longer a simple assembly of a top and a bottom, a front and a back, but a flexible, moving structure marrying not only the shapes but also the sighs and smiles of the one who wears it.
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