Tailleur bleu 26 ref BDNW11691, Circa 1930
Atelier Vionnet

Medium : Pencil enhanced with gouache on docelles paper
Type of work : Original drawing signed lower right by Blanche Aubert, first hand from Vionnet workshop.
Provenance : Marcelle Chaumont and Madeleine Chapsal collection, the invoice engages the responsibility of the gallery as to the authenticity of the work.

Expert's comments : The designs of the Atelier Vionnet that the gallery is proud to present to you constitute an important part of the history of fashion. Beyond their historical value, they show the artistic talent of the collaborators of the Vionnet haute couture house at its peak in the 20s and 30s. It is true, the quality of the designs that led us to dive into this universe of fashion that we knew too little, leading to the discovery of this extraordinary woman that is Madeleine Vionnet. Perfectly known to great designers for her famous bias cut and the quality of her creations, she is much less known to the general public. We are therefore happy to share with you the discovery of this great lady whose journey, courage, hard work and humanity should inspire women today. These drawings also prompted us to think about the creative process of the dresses which first come to life on rosewood mannequins with articulated limbs and rotating on themselves so that we can judge the effect of a bias or of a drape. They also make it possible to capture the movement in its simultaneity but also in its entirety. It was only after this stage, when the first hands of Vionnet presented her with these elaborate quarter-size canvases on the famous mannequins that she could go further in the execution and move on to drawing. It is undoubtedly for this reason that the designs from the Atelier Vionnet are so accomplished and reproduce the Vionnet style so well. His creations combine both antique and modernity and will revolutionize the fashion of his time. Indeed, her dresses are flexible and dress the body in a strict molding of harmonious folds with balanced proportions while allowing freedom of movement. In addition, some drawings offered by the gallery have specific features that increase their value. Some are signed by hand by the first of the workshop, others are accompanied by a piece of fabric, an explanatory text or even a reference number because Vionnet protected all its models from counterfeiting. Finally, it is difficult to dissociate these drawings from the artistic context of the time. Like the Art Deco style, Vionnet's work hides complex and laborious work under an apparent simplicity. Vionnet's inventions have also often been compared to that of cubism in painting, which broke the planes of pictorial space. Indeed, the garment is no longer a simple assembly of a top and a bottom, a front and a back, but a flexible, moving structure marrying not only the shapes but also the sighs and smiles of the one who wears it.

Artist's biography : Madeleine Vionnet, born in 1876, took her first steps into the world of couture at the age of 11. Endowed with a strong character and independent, she decided to leave for England at the age of 18 where she worked alongside Kate Reily, a renowned fashion house. In 1901, back in Paris, she met the Callot sisters, with whom she worked for nearly five years. A few years later, wanting to have the freedom to create her own models and express her vision of fashion, she joined Jacques Doucet. Aspiring very quickly to even more freedom in her creations and motivated by many clients, Madeleine Vionnet opened her first house in rue de Rivoli in 1912. It was during this period that she met Marcelle Chaumont, a gifted technician who quickly rose through the ranks within the Vionnet house to become the first hand of the seamstress in 1914 and finally partner in 1930. The real success began after the war, when she invented her famous bias cut. She revolutionized the fashion of her time by offering dresses combining tradition and modernity. Inspired by ancient Greece, her supple dresses dress the woman's body in a strict molding of harmonious folds, presenting a pleasant silhouette. Her creations have balanced proportions and allow freedom of movement for the women who wear them. In 1923, driven by success, she moved to the sumptuous private mansion on Avenue Montaigne, where the famous “Maison Vionnet” was located. In 1939, she was decorated as an officer of the Legion of Honor as a seamstress in Paris. It was at the height of her career when her talent was recognized by all and after years of hard work that Madeleine Vionnet decided to put an end to it. She thus enters the history of fashion, leaving behind an important legacy for future generations of designers who are all aware of the contributions of this extraordinary woman.