Founder Andria Rogers © Sophie Kaye Photography

This week, Artsper sat down with Andria Rogers, founder of the New-York based vintage jewelry company Andria Barboné. We delved into Andria's artistic inspirations, explored her unique design process and uncovered the enduring allure of antique jewels.

1. Welcome Andria! Could you share with us the story behind starting your own vintage jewelry company? What has been the most fulfilling part of the journey so far?

When my now-husband and I first began to look at engagement rings, I really struggled to find something I liked and connected with. None of the modern rings were speaking to me or felt like something I'd want to wear. When I came upon an antique jewelry trunk show, I fell in love and felt like “this is what I've been looking for!" I thought that if more people knew that these amazing antique diamonds existed, then everyone would want them. And from there, the company was born. I get the most enjoyment from showing people that there is a whole world of unique and beautiful antique diamonds and jewelry out there. I love to help them break the mold and find a dream ring that truly matches their style.

2. When it comes to sourcing your rings, what is the process like? What factors do you consider when selecting them?

We source our stones and jewels from all over the world through many different avenues because these beauties can be hidden anywhere. Our main objective is to find pieces that are beautiful and unique – the things that we just can't live without. As one of our customers said to us: nothing haunts you like the vintage you didn't buy! This tends to be our sourcing philosophy. Whereas some modern diamonds and jewelry can come from a manufacturer in large quantities, we get very excited about the rarity of these antique stones and pieces that are truly one of one.

While oftentimes the focus with buying modern diamonds is on the specs (color, clarity, cut), we focus less on what things look like on paper and more on the overall beauty, artistry, and rarity. We always strive to find and create jewelry that we love with our eyes and hearts first, and then delve into the specs later.  

Jewels from the Andria Barboné collection © Sophie Kaye Photography

3. Are you able to learn about the history behind some of your vintage pieces? Is there a particular story behind an item that stands out to you?

While we're not always able to learn the history of the antique diamonds and jewelry we come across, we can sometimes learn about a ring from its hallmarks which are small symbols stamped on a piece. I'm particularly into this Half Hoop ring style that often comes from the UK during the late Victorian / early Edwardian eras. They often have stamped symbols on the inside which give clues as to where and when the ring was made. Deciphering them is like reading a code – a fun historical puzzle to solve. It's one of my favorite styles to find, but it is becoming increasingly difficult to do so as they are quite popular among collectors. 

4. Vintage rings have a unique aesthetic which often differs from modern designs. How do you balance classic and contemporary elements?

The style of my rings tends towards the classic side, but I try to keep the designs fresh and unique within that realm. Our signature looks still feel like traditional engagement rings but with unique details and interesting stylistic choices that nod to themes of the past while still feeling current. I aim to blend the classic and contemporary to create a look that not only showcases the diamond, but feels like a cohesive, thoughtful, and beautifully designed piece as a whole. The great thing about antique jewelry is that it never goes out of style!   

5. Jewelry has often been described as wearable art. What do you think about the relationship between art and jewelry?

I have always thought of jewelry as wearable art! As with painting or sculpture, people gravitate towards the jewelry pieces which they emotionally connect with the most. I see both art and jewelry as a way to express your personal tastes and aesthetic, which is why our goal is to offer pieces that allow for that genuine expression. Also, the craftsmanship it takes to make a ring, whether by our current jewelers or those in the past who created the amazing antique pieces we curate, is an art form in and of itself. The way raw stones and metal become something so beautiful and delicate takes lots of skill. 

Jewels from the Andria Barboné collection © Sophie Kaye Photography

6. As a designer, are there any artists or art movements that have influenced your work?

Right now, I am very inspired by the Art Nouveau / Belle Epoque era. I love the organic, floral, and feminine design elements, and am finding interesting ways to to apply those themes to my own designs. 

Interestingly, two musical artists have been really influential to me: Lana del Rey and Amy Winehouse. I've always loved how both of these women capture a vintage feel and vibe while singing about modern themes. It's that blend of old and new, classic and contemporary, that I find very inspiring to my own work. More often than not, I'm listening to Lana and Amy while I design, hoping that some of their enchanting nostalgia comes through in the jewels.

7. Lastly, we're curious - if you could invite one creative to dinner, who would it be and why?

Liz Damrich is an interior designer and creative director whose work I very much admire. Her attention to detail, impeccable style, and use of antiques are all so inspiring to me. Watching her Instagram stories has made me think about aesthetics differently, and I think that is a sign of true talent – to inspire others to think outside of the box.